Quick Tips for Reading Greens

1. Speed:

ontrolling the speed of your put is vitally important.
The quicker the ball is rolling, the less the ball will break.
The optimum pace to hit a putt is one that would take the ball 15 inches to 17 inches past the hole. This speed ensures that the ball holds its line.
True Down Slope Direction (TDSD)The momentum of the stroke makes the ball roll along a straight line initially (we have stated the relationship between speed and break).
However, as the ball gets closer to the hole the ball begins to lose its speed. As it loses its speed the ball will start to look for and go down the true downslope of the green as gravity starts to take over.

2. Assessing Your Putt:

Target PointEvery putt is therefore effectively a straight putt, it all depends on how hard you hit it as to whether it takes any break.
With your pace of putt in mind, pick the break you envisage the putt will take. Then pick your target out as a straight line and hit the ball at the right speed so that it takes the break.
When you approach the green it is important therefore to look at the contours and assess the slopes and lie of the land.

3. Uphill or Downhill:

Downhill PuttsWith less momentum from the strike on a downhill putt, gravity will act upon the ball sooner on its run towards the hole and force the ball down the direction of the true downslope.
On downhill putts, therefore, we need to allow for more break.
Remember; less speed equals more break.
Uphill PuttsUphill putts are much easier than downhill putts because they have less break due to the momentum of the strike required to hit the ball up the hill.
Remember: more speed equals less break.
The ball will take any break when it starts to "die" (loses speed), this is when gravity starts to takes over and the ball will follow the true downslope.

4. Side Slopes:

Side Slope PuttsIt is important to note that putts hit across any side slope are uphill on the first part of the putt and then downhill on the second part of the putt.
Once you have assessed whether the put is uphill or downhill (to help you determine the pace of the putt and initial starting line) then focus on the area around the hole where the ball will die and gain an understanding of the direction of the true downslope, as this is where the slope will have the greatest influence on your putt.
By building up a picture of the contours you will build up a picture of the line and pace you will need to hit the ball on for it to go in the hole.
Practice reading putts in the same way you practice your mechanics. This will help you learn to assess the effects different slopes and speeds have on your putts. Building up such experience will help you make more decisive and accurate reads out on the course.

The Swing Sequence

These photos illustrate the swing sequence on greenside sand shots, incorporating a correct setup, proper technique and consistent point of entry.

Work On Your Game with These Free Golf Tips

Being successful out of the sand depends on three things: correct setup, proper technique and consistent point of entry.
You should use a sand wedge when playing short sand shots around the green. A sand wedge may vary from 55 to 58 degrees of loft with 8 to 12 degrees of bounce. I personally prefer a 58-degree sand wedge with 8 degrees of bounce.

For the correct setup, I like to draw or visualize three lines in the sand, as shown in the photos above. Each line has a specific purpose. The line going from the target to the ball and then extending beyond the ball is called the target line. The line that is about 10 degrees open to the target line is the angle of our feet or toes. Then I draw a line perpendicular to the target line originating at the ball. This represents ball position, which should be off the left heel for righthanded golfers (photo below).
Once you have the correct setup with the same amount of weight on each foot, the face of the club should be slightly open (photo at right). This puts loft on the ball and allows the back portion of the bottom of the club to bounce off the sand, as opposed to having the leading edge dig into the sand.
The start of the backswing (see Swing Sequence photos below) should be straight back or slightly outside the target line. There is an immediate breaking of the hands as you start this motion, producing a more vertical swing which encourages the club to enter the sand about two inches behind the ball (this is the point of entry).
What you are actually trying to do is to take as little sand as possible without contacting the ball. Allow the sand to lift the ball from the bunker. (You can work on getting a consistent point of entry with the Point of Entry Drill described here.)
As you make contact with the sand there should be a cupping of the left wrist. Let me explain "cupping." Assume you are wearing a watch on your left wrist and the face, as usual, is pointing outward. When contacting the sand on the forward swing, you should try to take the back of your left hand and move it towards your watch face, thereby creating wrinkles underneath your left wrist. This action is called "cupping of the wrist" and it is very necessary in producing quality sand shots. Since this motion prevents the club from closing, the ball is lifted in the air with backspin.
These are the three most important things regarding sand play around the greens. You don't have to be perfect to get out of a sand bunker, but you have enough of the basic principles to get started.